Improve the hotend performance

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  • #9498
    bcn3dtech
    Participant

    If you have experienced any grinding or extrusion issues, you can reduce this problems just by applying a simple trick: add some thermal grease to the hotend. Follow these steps:


    1. Remove the hotend from the Sigma. Check this video out (until minute 1:18):

    2. Once the hotend is out (and cooled down!), use pliers to untighten the aluminium block. Be careful not to damage the wiring:

    You will have two subassemblies: On one side, the heatsink. On the other side, the nozzle + aluminium block + heatbreak + wiring:

    3. Then, add some Thermal Grease on the upper thread of the heatbreak. The higher thermal conductivity of the grease, the better performance of the hotend. We are using this reference: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/thermal-grease/2173835/

    3.a

    3.b

    4. Assemble both subassemblies again, making sure the thermal grease is spread evenly on the heatsink thread:

    4.a

    Use pliers to tighten firmly both parts:

    4.b

    5. Finally, mount the hotend back to the Sigma. Follow the video instructions, from minute 1:19:


    #9510
    Phill
    Participant

    Nice work but i think this is the only place the Sigma is lacking. It seems the hotends have many issues including this one. The worse thing i’ve found so far is the wear on the nozzle when using carbon fiber, after about 30 hours printing it’s worn out. Also replacing the whole hotend just for nozzle wear? It seems really silly. I know you are trying to make it easy to replace but it also puts a higher cost on it.
    I’m in the process of testing the E3D v6 hotend with great results so far.

    #9557
    jamie
    Participant

    I’d just like to add that I have put some thermal paste on the heat break and have seen a huge improvement in performance. PLA that would previously block within minutes is working flawlessly. And ColorFabb PLA/PHA is also now working great! I can pretty much print with any material out there now.
    I’m just blown away how a small change like this can make such a massive improvement in performance.
    In my opinion this is a must do mod. Thankfully it is cheap, quick and easy to do. Hope BCN3D do this to all the new machines being built.

    #9584
    rubin.khatib
    Participant

    #jamie
    can you please explain more about what you’ve done? as i’m suffering from printing colorfabb pla materials !

    #9601
    vlad
    Participant

    I can’t see the photos, can you please check?

    #9603

    Tomorrow we’ll check.
    This image by Christian Gassner is also very useful:

    #9604

    By the way, if you are using e3D is also very important to use thermal paste.

    #9863
    k3d.honduras
    Participant

    Hi can anyone tell me if there is a trick to unscrewing the hotted casing, had no problem with 2 hotends but the third one does not want to move.

    #10191
    pedro
    Participant

    We ran a segment on how to remove the heatbreak from both sides using the M6 blot mentioned before:

    #10205
    jamie
    Participant

    Hi Rubin,
    I just did what has been listed here. I changed nothing else and Colorfabb is working Fabb!

    #10208
    mh
    Participant

    Why is this not done at the factory?

    #10217
    roger uceda
    Moderator

    We are currently applying heatsink paste in production.
    Printers with a serial number bigger XXX.160616.YYY have this improvement already done at the factory. Also all the spare parts hotend have it done.

    #10241
    vlad
    Participant

    What about maximum operating temperature of the thermal paste? The one you recommend has 200 deg. limit, higher temperature pastes usually have lower thermal conductivity. I was wondering whether this paste will degrade over some time working at 200+ temperatures?

    #10245
    roger uceda
    Moderator

    Yes, it’s true!
    This is the reason why we only recommend to use it in the upper part of the hotend, where you only have 60-100 degrees.

    #10270
    Phill
    Participant

    Would HY610 be more suitable?

    #10273
    roger uceda
    Moderator

    It seems to be better in terms of heat resistance:
    http://www.halnziye.net/products_detail/&productId=59.html

    #10277
    roger uceda
    Moderator
    #10296
    vlad
    Participant

    I found some more compounds on Amazon:
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Cooling-MX-4-Thermal-Compound/dp/B0045JCFLY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468241053&sr=8-1&keywords=heatsink+paste
    thermal conductivity – 8.5 W/mK,
    temp. range – not indicated
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cooler-Master-HTK-002-U1-GP-Performance-conductivity/dp/B0009PTBZ6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1468240863&sr=8-7&keywords=heatsink+compound
    thermal conductivity – 11 W/mK,
    temp. range – up to 150
    These look promising, knowing that heat sink temperature is only up to 100

    #10309
    roger uceda
    Moderator

    11W/mK ! it sounds very high 😉

    #23311
    Gildas
    Participant

    Hello all
    the best for thermal grease it is this one:
    http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/16-kryonaut-en
    u can find it everywhere (amazon included) for cheap price
    max t°C= 350°C
    and 12,5W /mK
    to clean or unmount after a while it is very very easy
    people who knows how to mount computer, knows this one, and how much it is important the W/mK
    I use only this and recommend at 200% 😉
    PS: of course only at the final threads not on the “point”
    I put only on the 2/3 of the lenght

    #32863
    john3
    Participant

    I have really problems with printing colorfabb PLA. Even have bondtechs and an R17 machine. Do I have to do this procedure?

    #32929
    vlad
    Participant

    I don’t think you do. Thermal grease is being applied since some time on 2016 hot ends and I would suggest it should be applied on R17 hot ends.
    What kind of part are you having problems with? We only had problems with parts with a lot of retractions…otherwise it prints ok

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