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Viewing 22 posts - 1 through 22 (of 22 total)
- Aug 9, 2016 at 6:47 pm #11701
On some forums I’ve read people had no luck replacing nozzles – it pulled out the threads from the hot end. So I’ve ordered a .6mm complete hot end but I am curious if the nozzle could be safely removed before it is ever used. If so why not apply some high temperature anti-seize compound so it could be removed in the future?
I anticipate using abrasive materials like carbon fiber fill and I have seen demonstrations where brass nozzles are worn quickly. At $72 per hot end it is too expensive to replace regularly.Aug 9, 2016 at 6:58 pm #11703
I hope you are able to determine this to a successful end. I hesitate to use any filament beyond PLA and ABS for the same reason as you’ve stated. Purchasing and destroying an expensive hot end is not an option. I have been considering to purchase a completely different printer in order to use exotics, but I’m in no hurry and look forward to learning of your progress.Aug 9, 2016 at 9:08 pm #11707Aug 9, 2016 at 9:13 pm #11709Aug 9, 2016 at 9:19 pm #11711
I’d love to see a comprehensive instructable or the equivalent step-by-step for adapting the E3D system to the Sigma. It would have to include cable connection considerations as well as any other parts involved. I’ve seen bits and pieces, here and there, but nothing along the lines of a turn-key adaptation.Aug 9, 2016 at 9:30 pm #11713
matterhackers has shipped so I’ll try in a few days unless I hear why not. Maybe there are thermal issues. Am curious if silver heat sink compound would transfer heat and act as an anti-seize?Aug 9, 2016 at 10:34 pm #11716vladParticipant
It is clearly manufacturing issue and it’s a shame they didn’t solve it yet!
They even sell nozzles but don’t recommend changing them!
I can understand having this problem for first batches of hot-ends, but not for such a long time.
If this aluminium alloy doesn’t work well, maybe using an insert will help or choosing stronger al. alloy, or as you guys suggested – anti-seize paste…Aug 9, 2016 at 10:56 pm #11718Aug 9, 2016 at 11:11 pm #11720
Phill, I see your Thingy says detailed instructions coming soon. Is that a “kickstarter-soon” or a different form of the use of the word? (grin)
I’ve added a comment to the Thingy with links for a US source of connectors. Quite inexpensive. I should be able to buy the parts for a bit more than US$150, still less expensive than a new printer.Aug 10, 2016 at 12:17 am #11722
Thanks I’ll update the description with those links 🙂
I’ll honestly try to get some instructions done asap.
I also use these on the E3D https://m.fasttech.com/products/0/10013091/2208807-brass-0-4mm-3mm-e3d-v6-extra-nozzle-for-3d so the running costs are really small.Aug 14, 2016 at 7:15 pm #11778
the .6mm hot end arrived. Unused, the nozzle came out. The thread was tight but there was no damage. It’s going back in with some permatex anti-seize.Aug 14, 2016 at 11:53 pm #11797
Bill, that’s good news. Will you be making a similar attempt after you’ve run some filament through it, to determine future capability of low cost nozzle exchange?Aug 15, 2016 at 12:03 am #11799
yes.Aug 15, 2016 at 12:05 am #11801
Phill do you have good xy dimensional consistency?
My squares, circles, any shape are 0.35 to 0.5 mm shorter on the y axis dimensionAug 15, 2016 at 12:42 am #11803
It seems pretty good. I’m currently printing some mounts for a set of geared bondtech extruders and they came out spot on. My Sigma is mutating weekly though :/
Go for E3D if you can. It will solve all the jamming and clogging issues.Aug 15, 2016 at 12:45 am #11805
I will say though the esteps do seem a little out in the stock firmware. I spent a day tuning up so that may be why mine are exact. I’m using the original X,y steppers still.Aug 15, 2016 at 1:37 am #11811
Should Esteps have an effect on the xy dimensions then? Like the blob of plastic on the tip of the extruder is in error instead of the xy steps/ mechanics?Aug 15, 2016 at 2:00 am #11813
I just printed some gizmo dorks tpu through the new .6mm nozzle. I put silver heat sink compound on the top thread where the finned parts goes as recommended by bcn. On the nozzle I used anti-seize. The printing went well but I had to turn the flow up to 140-150%! I have cura set to .6 instead of .4. Maybe for some reason it still thinks it’s at .4 though and that’s why the 150%Aug 15, 2016 at 4:16 am #11815
I probably will upgrade the printheads sometime.
It might be a while since I’d like to get some mileage out of the existing nozzles. I’m really impressed by this machine and it will be worth any modifications it takes.
The XY constancy is going to be right no matter what it takes.
When you tuned the esteps did that require rebuilding the firmware source in the arduino ide or is there some configuration file?Aug 15, 2016 at 9:34 am #11817
I actually didn’t mean esteps. I altered the steps per unit for X and Y and then calculated the esteps again. It’s all in the firmware config file.Aug 18, 2016 at 1:45 am #11895fade99xParticipant
I stripped my nozzle out removing it. So I put E3d blocks and nozzles on both heads. Had to redesign the fan housings though.Aug 18, 2016 at 2:47 am #11898
fade99x, do you mean that you modified Phill’s design or that you created your own fan housing design in order to fit the custom modification you performed?
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